St. James – we are coming!

Drove 3.500 km by car along three important Ways of St. James and walked individual stretches of way … checked the quality of about 30 hotels and 10 restaurants … visited 5 cathedrals, numberless churches and chapels … discovered a number of wonderful power places … these catchwords describe the result of twice 10 days of preparation and planning for our spiritual journey 2016.

Many roads lead to Rome but probably even more to Santiago de Compostela! There is, for instance, the French-Spanish Way of St. James from the east, the British Way from the north, the Portuguese Way from the south, and the North Way from the northeast. We spent most of our time on the French-Spanish route, because it contains the most beautiful cultural sights.

It was not always easy to find the routes; especially the British Way of St. James, of which we were unable to get a description on site, was extremely difficult to find. Like detectives we looked for the sparse hints at the wayside, asked locals, all of whom spoke English, for the way with our scant knowledge of Spanish. Many of them did not even know that there is a British Way of St. James that actually only runs a few kilometres away from their front door.

But it was worth the effort! We were able to arrange a beautiful and very varied travel route that combines culture with spirituality and does not lack good food and comfortable hotels. Every day we are going to walk short, but sublime parts of the Way of St. James, most of the time on the French-Spanish Way and on the last day on the British Way, so that we get to the seashore. The culmination is going to be the visit we are going to pay to the cathedral in Santiago, the much longed-for destination of all the pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

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Mary Magdalene in A Coruña (Spain)

What did the artists of previous centuries know about Mary Magdalene? Was she depicted as the woman at Jesus’ side more often than we suspect – and symbolically coded very deliberately? These and similar questions I ask myself time and again when I enter a church where I see a Mary represented with long red hair and in red-green garments. All are hints at the fact that this is not intended to be Mother Mary but Mary Magdalene, just like in the small church Santa Barbara in A Coruña, ca. 80 km north of Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain.

In this specific case she is shown sitting next to Jesus on a cloud, which is indicative of his mother at a first glance. Maybe the commissioner only wanted the glass window to show Mary’s admission into heaven and did not know that the artist painted Mary Magdalene instead of Mary? Or maybe he instructed the artist to depict “Mother Mary” with long red hair in green-red garments, knowing well that he made Mary Magdalene sit next to Jesus by doing so? This always comes to my mind when I see depictions of this kinds in churches.

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A “couch potato” on the Way of St. James

Only when I was I child I enjoyed exercise! Ever since I am grown up I like to spend most of my time with writing or thinking (besides my spiritual work, of course). The only exercise that I really enjoy is dancing. Once a very professional astrologer discerned that exercise is not really my thing in my horoscope …

And now I am travelling on the Way of St. James VOLUNTARILY, in order to plan a spiritual journey for 2016 together with Gerd. Of course, we chose sections that are scenic and pleasant to walk, probably that is the reason why hiking gave me pleasure today. My head, which is always filled with – what feels like – a thousand thoughts, ideas and visions, became freer and lighter with every step; I actually succeeded not to think about anything at times. This is a very special kind of meditation I would like to keep up in the future as well. At least occasionally 😉

Find more photos here

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Plan A and Plan B

Since today Gerd and I are travelling on the Way of St. James for the second time within three weeks. This time is about giving the “final touch” to our SPIRITUAL JOURNEY 2016, which we plan for our fellow travellers all by ourselves. And for such a journey there always need to be a plan A and a plan B, especially when it comes to the hotels we have tested and chosen. Because what can you do if the desired hotels are closed in September 2016, if they are being renovated or maybe even do not accommodate tour parties? So that this does not happen, we always have alternative hotels and alternative routes in petto. You never know … 😉

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What is this place?

Am I in Ireland? Or on one of the Mediterranean islands Minorca or Corsica? Or maybe even on the Azores? … One has such a fixed idea of Spain and its landscape. Especially if you have already seen a lot of this country. But Northern Spain – particularly the region around Santiago de Compostela – is a whole lot different from the rest of the country. I love the small houses and the stone walls overgrown with ivy and ferns that are so typical for this stretch of land.

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The most important thing is a roof over one’s head

I admire the “real” pilgrims on the Way of St. James who for days walk hundreds of miles with the big and distant goal of reaching the cathedral of Santiago. And that in any wind and weather! Now, in December, only a few are on the way, wrapped up warmly and protected against wind and the cold. Most of the hostels along the way are closed.

These are frequently very humble – not to say primitive – and offer a sleeping-place either in a dorm room with bunk beds or in tiny rooms into which only one or two beds fit. With these pilgrims I cannot and must not compare myself when I am lying in my cosy hotel bed at night.

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The journey is its own reward!

„The journey is its own reward!“ – this especially pertains to the pilgrims on the Way of St. James. After all, most people who walk it meditate or pray during the peregrination that lasts for days and thereby want to discover the access to themselves. For this reason, they accept the partly very different routes willingly and do not give it a second thought whether the landscape is bleak or charming, monotonous or diversified. They probably are not bothered about the numerous high-voltage lines, wind farms or the stretches of way that run alongside roads.

Maybe my idea of the Way of St. James was a bit romantic, or I have an entirely different vision of the spiritual journey that Gerd and I are planning for a group of like-minded people for 2016. After all, it is not always that easy to find beautiful stretches of way through a harmonious landscape.

Strictly speaking, our approach is not the classic pilgrimage full of deprivations in the course of which one slowly approaches the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela over days and weeks, but we love the combination between history, culture and spirituality, all of which abound in this region. All together make up an ideal spiritual journey for us, towards whose perfect design we advance more closely day by day.

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How the Way of St. James came by its name

I know that Tiago is the name of the son of the opera singer Anna Netrebko. However, what I did not know: Tiago is the Spanish name for James. Thus, Santiago or San Tiago means Saint James.

Who was this saint? This question is forced upon oneself if – as have we for some days – one is on one’s way on the Way of St. James through Northern Spain.

Allegedly, James was the son of Mary Salome, who accompanied Mary Magdalene through Southern Spain. If her son James accompanied them as well, we probably will never know. He is supposed to have been tortured to death in Jerusalem in 44 AD, but he could have travelled with his mother and the entourage of Mary Magdalene to Southwest Europe as well and finally been buried in Santiago de Compostela.

However, the official version says that his mortal remains were translated from the Holy Land to Santiago de Compostela by King Alfonso II. in order to give Spain a high-ranking pilgrimage site – next to Jerusalem and Rome. According to another legend, mysterious light phenomena of the stars showed the hermit Pelagio the way to a field, where he discovered the remains of the apostle James. To this miracle the town owes its euphonious name, because Santiago de Compostela means St. James of the field of stars.

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Flexibility is necessary

Paper doesn’t blush, but frequently reality is entirely different … This experience Gerd and I have to make again and again when we are planning a spiritual journey. We peruse guide books for weeks, plan great routes and then, when we are on site, the first challenges arise: sites and places that were described as being well worth visiting in the books turn out be not very attractive, hotels and restaurants fall short of our expectations, or we unexpectedly stumble on a great object of interest in the middle of our planned route which we do not want to ignore and would like to fit in in our itinerary someway.

Thus, hardly a day goes by in the course of our preparation trip where we do not have to replan. Nevertheless, we look forward to new impressions and experiences every morning and collapse into the hotel bed bone-weary but content in the evening.

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In the land of Saint James

Many of you surely know Paulo Coelho’s bestseller “The Pilgrimage”, in which he describes his impressive spiritual experiences on the Way of Saint James through Northern Spain. Certainly this worldwide bestseller helped the region awaking from its deep slumber. But still it seems as if this clime had not suffered from the flow of pilgrims and tourists, because it still appears to be very pristine and authentic.

Ever since I mentally accompanied Coelho on his peregrinations – in the meantime I have read some books of other authors who followed this pilgrims’ way – my interest in this area has awakened. Therefore, what could be more reasonable than planning and organising the spiritual journey after next in 2016 for like-minded people in the “land of Saint James”? No sooner said than done! As of today Gerd and I are touring the region around Santiago de Compostela and are exploring sites and places that seem to be “worthy” of a spiritual journey.

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